rowen-dcndw 2025-1-5 11:48
【人文】昆士兰之梦：凯恩斯与大堡礁的12日诗画之旅（四）[100P]
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在沙滩上从东到西的溜达，这一整天，可以更说是啥都未做，又好似啥都做了，反复的在海滩前踏浪，闲转，因为太喜欢这个地方，小而宁静，又还方便，要说风景，并不美得让人窒息或说是无他处可比，但，这种独特的氛围和环境，就是让我溺于其中无法自拔。
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晚餐去了VivoPalm Cove, 餐馆与海之间隔了一条不宽的马路，与椰林遥望，菜品也喜欢满意。这几家餐馆也都有自己的酒吧，喜欢喝一杯的，都是不错的选择。
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餐毕出来，已是晴天！正是暮色晕染之时，海上云层先粉后紫，层层叠叠，实在好看，草地和沙滩上三俩人群拍照合影，也有不为所动的淡然而过的人们，想是早已司空见惯，不足为奇。
看这色彩瞬息变幻中！！！
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第九天：离开棕榈滩，宿Ayr的Island Motel. 算上中途转折公园的路途，当天400多公里。
天晴了，也是告别凯恩斯地区之时，去海滩抓着晴空再拍一轮照。而后，返程！
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中途转去帕洛尼拉公园(ParonellaPark), 一个已经废旧的城堡，一个故事大过风景的去处。
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故事缘起：西班牙的荷西（是的，西班牙的荷西）小时候从祖母口中听过很多城堡的故事，让他决心长大后也要建造一个属于自己的城堡，26岁那年，他从西班牙来到澳洲，开始了他的寻梦之旅，花了13年时间（在当地的农场工作），他终于有能力买地开始实现梦想，1929年，他用120英磅，在美纳溪畔（Mena Creek）买下的13英亩的土地。筑梦之前，他先回了西班牙迎娶他的未婚妻玛提达，可惜，因他走的这些年渺无音讯，爱人已嫁作他人妇。不过，最后他迎娶了未婚妻的妹妹玛格瑞特来兑现当初对婚约的承诺（听前面我是感动的，听到这里，我有点晕）度完蜜月后，他们一起回到澳洲，共建城堡来完成他的梦想。此后，花了6年时间将一片荒地建造成他的城堡花园——用废弃的铁轨作为建筑的支撑，再取湖底砂砾作为主要建筑材料，徒手盖起了这整座城堡以及周边的包括附属的水力电站，他也是首位将水力电站引进昆州的人。
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“Jose’s dream was realised, may all your dreams also cometrue!——这是坚持和努力就能实现梦想的榜样！
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城堡因为洪灾而废旧，被后来人打造成了旅游胜地。古堡整体保存尚好，但是有些屋室只剩下残垣断壁。绿植掩映中布满了青苔和岁月打磨痕迹的西班牙风格古建筑，那种美丽又荒芜的风格很是吸引人——飞泻而下的瀑布、带着历史沧桑感的建筑、高耸入云的热带植物以及有着感人故事背景的城堡，吸引着行来过往的游人们。
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这个废旧的有故事的城堡，据说为宫崎骏的《天宫之城》提供了灵感的地方之一。城堡后的贝壳杉松小径，笔直的树干高耸，树叶遮天蔽日，是所有人去必拍照很出片的地方。
一对拍照的情侣！
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古堡里转转！
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距城堡几十公里处有一棵已经有上亿年历史的窗帘树CurtainFig Tree，也是天宫之城的灵感地之一。我们没去，这次很多地方我们都没去。总的来说，这是一次慵懒的不太讲究的旅行——在整个昆士兰的热带雨林中，有着300多座免费的国家公园，既然走不全，一次少走几个地方，也没什么可遗憾的！
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公园出来奔Ayr, 住的公路边的一家Motel,环境一般，胜在便宜又方面，该有的东西：吹风、熨斗、微波炉洗漱用品啥都不少。下午早早到达，街上转了一圈，一个不小但荒凉的城镇。想找吃的，除了一家酒吧和超市开着，其他所有店都关着门——当天正是新年夜了，大家都在度假中。回了酒店，泡了包粉丝啃了个面包，权当一顿。晚饭后地图上找了个海滩溜达一阵，回程路上，又正是暮色正好时！
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从凯恩斯往南回的路途上，距凯恩斯300来公里处，有澳洲落差最高的瀑布“Wallaman Falls”,落差260米，有50成年历史的永不断流的瀑布。这算全程没去到的一个遗憾，说是贪多吧，其实是全程的线拉得太长，时间上不够。
第十天，宿Mackay的Casa Nostra Motel.
早上从住处出来不多远便是另一个镇Home Hill，再一次经过了钢结构的桥（Burdekin Bridge），遇上了迎面而来的火车，去时路过，我拍照，他说，这么丑的桥啊！知道了是火车轨道与汽车道平行而建后，突然有了大的改观。
在Mackay原本的打算是看沙滩袋鼠，所以这里也是专留出来的一天，想着如果好玩，可以多留一天。当天行程320公里，下午一点多钟到达。
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在Mackay原本的打算是看沙滩袋鼠，所以这里也是专留出来的一天，想着如果好玩，可以多留一天。当天行程320公里，下午一点多钟到达。
市里找了家正在营业的马来西亚餐馆，今天是新年，也有加收百分之十五服务费的,前一晚因为没吃着正餐，早晨起来也没好好吃东西，到中午，饿得快要断气，相对来说，并不太喜欢马来餐。
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入住酒店，查了看袋鼠的沙滩，只有早晨日出时分可见，北昆的日出比南昆更早，起不来，即使能起，还得往回开差不多一小时，早起实在困难，这个城市的感觉也不值得多留一天，故又搜索了附近90公里外的Eungella National Park-Broken River 去看野生鸭嘴兽，傍晚4-7点或晨4-8点是最佳时间，见着的几率较大。稍事休息，继续驱车出发，赶在4点前进山。到了公园守了3个小时，只见着了一只瞬间即逝的鸭嘴兽—突然的浮起来游了一小段后很快沉了下去，连拍照的机会也没给。不过，沿途风光倒是不错，中途还去了一小段环线的瞭望台。
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晚餐，市中心的“Hog’s Breath Café Mackay”
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第十一天：620公里，宿Gin Gin的Country Comfort Gin Gin，传统老式的小镇酒店，客房餐厅都有，有免费的送餐服务。
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路过Rockhampton，在市中心的购物中心食物广场吃午餐，顺道逛了一下商场，面积挺大，是北昆较大的城市。
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当晚在酒店前台后面的小餐厅晚餐
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第十二天：（2022.01.01）算上中间转去海边的路总长420公里。
晨起客房送餐早餐
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回程返家。转去了前几年去过一次心念不止的邦德堡（Bundaberg)地区的ElliottHeads 和 Bargara,本想在此拿出泳衣淌水，时逢涨潮，浪涛汹涌，没下得去。
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此次行程全长4300公里（加上中途去山里、各景点的路程），历时12天。饮食上，除了马来餐，所有餐食都相当满意。
北昆的海水，色绿如翡翠—— 天阴时是淡翡，天晴是碧翡，近处水清至透明，至远处深邃神秘，怎么都好看。
北昆又是甘蔗、香蕉、各种坚果类、荔枝、龙眼、菠萝、芒果。。。。。的主要产地。
北昆，是可以去无数次、有着诱人又迷人的风景的地方！
北昆，以后再来与不来，心里，都已留下了重重一笔!
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